Magnificent.
Thunderous. Wet.
(my first view)
Not the highest, nor the widest, nor the bearer of the
largest volume of water, but considered by most to be the biggest –
Victoria Falls. We arrived at the
beginning of the wet season but there was already lots of water and lots of
mist. I was soaked from top to toe by
the end of my visit.
(soaked from top to toe)
It doesn't take long to walk along the mile or so of the park, but the closer you get to the horseshoe falls, the wetter you get.
VF is a scruffy tourist town with a few isolated bits of luxury – nothing much going on and, as in
Swapkomund, the locals mostly disappear early evening. Tonight I spoilt myself and went along to the Victoria Falls
Hotel, a traditional colonial luxury hotel at the other end of town from my utilitarian
“Rest Lodge and Camping Park”. I hadn’t
planned to go there and so was not really in the most appropriate gear, but I
didn’t feel out of place as I wondered about the gardens, took photos and
ordered a cold glass of wine and salmon, “as long as it is fresh” with a tomato
and onion salad. I have really missed
fresh fish.
(view from Victoria Falls Hotel showing bridge over to Zambia and the mist from the falls)
The service was impeccable –
my waiter must have been there for 30 years or more, and he did look after me. For instance, when I pulled out a book, he
brought over a copy of the local “Sunday Daily Mail” and asked if I would like
to read it. Most of the guests had long
chats with their waiters and there were many mentions of “please” and “thank
you”. It was all wonderfully quiet. The wealthy of this world certainly know how
to be polite. I had a long chat with my
waiter too, much of which I did not really understand but I kept on smiling, nodding my head and tried to say the right thing. The final price was $40 dollars and I left a
$10 tip. Clearly I had enjoyed my
evening. I don’t actually think the
salmon was fresh, but it was beautifully prepared and tasted delicious.
VF is full of malingering young men trying to sell wooden carvings or stone sculptures –
they pester you wherever they go. Mostly
I have managed to deal with them politely, but I was worried about the
800m walk home after my meal from the hotel. I asked
the security guard outside the VF hotel if it was safe and he said no, I would
have to get a taxi. The price would be
$5. He then said he would get one for
me, turned his back on me, and, with his colleague tried to search for the
number on his mobile phone! I went into
the hotel, checked with the receptionist about the need for a taxi, and was
told it was perfectly safe. And so I did
walk home along the dimly lit road but I have to admit I was super
cautious. The young salesmen
were still there but they were much more respectful once I explained my
concerns about walking home in the dark.
It was not a walk for the feint hearted. Next time I may take a taxi.
I couldn’t help but reflect on the contrast as I walked from
the lap of luxury to my lodge in a camping site. The lodge had cost me $27 dollars a
night. It should have been $120 but that
is another story – it is for 4 people and the campsite had overbooked the
cheaper accommodation – I lucked out and got an en-suite for free. It is very basic, but I have enjoyed staying
here - I particularly appreciate the space to spread my stuff around after the
best part of 3 weeks in a tent. The
Victoria Falls Hotel would have cost me $550 per night.
Once I was home safe and sound in my chalet I started to
read the local newspaper I had been given.
My jaw dropped a number of times. Mugabe got many mentions. And they were nearly all positive. The one that shocked me the most, and got me
thinking, was about the monopolisation of the diamond industry in a region
known as Chiadzwa. “The companies that
have been mining up there have robbed us of our wealth” said Mugabe. “The opacity of operations forced the
government to order the private companies to cease production and allow the
newly formed, state owned, Zimbabwe Consolidated Diamond Company (ZCDC) to move
in”. This is apparently going to save
the country billions – only $2 billion has been received from diamonds over the
last 10 years but this move, he said, would bring in $25-$30 in the next
10. Isn’t Mugabe a great leader?
Population is 12.5 million. Average life expectancy is 58. I am glad I'm moving on to Zambia tomorrow!
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