Final Posting of KSinSA; VF from the Zambian side

(Horseshoe falls from Zambia)

And so I come to the last posting of my travels across Southern America and Southern Africa.  My next blog will have to have another name.  My last 3 days were spent in Livingstone, Zambia, in a lodge overlooking the Zambezi.  It was a final few days of semi-luxury for me before moving on to Uganda and voluntary work.

I hadn't realised I would be quite so remote .... 30 mins by taxi from Victoria Falls on the Zambian side and the only guest at the lodge for the first night ... but I was delighted to have a bed, clean sheets, a fridge, space to wash and dry my laundry, and an internet connection.  The fluffy white towels I had also been hoping for turned out to be fluffy brown towels .... apparently it is impossible to get stuff white here unless it is nylon.  But I did feel as though I was in the lap of luxury.  I enjoyed the peace and quiet too.  Not so impressed though with the walking options - no long beach to wander along, just a 3 km track around the lodge's well fenced land that made "walking in the bush" more like "exercise by walking with an extra kg or two of mud stuck to your shoes" ....

I also had a neighbour by the name of "George" who passed by my lodge at 6.00am every morning ... never managed to photo him though.

The lodge had 17 wonderful staff all there to look after "just me" for the first night (a mother and daughter arrived on my second day and proved to be good company).  They couldn't have been more considerate: Fred the driver and guide, Clever the barman and waiter, Samson the laundryman, Dennis the gardener, Gerard the chef ... to name a few.  There was also Kevin the manager who charged me hugely discounted prices for lifts into Livingstone and to Victoria Falls although I was asked if I would please do a trip advisor report about my visit.  There was another chap who spent all day sitting at the entrance to the plot owned by the lodge ... about 2kms from the lodge itself .... with about 3 cars coming and going all day.  I was thankful for the protection, but what a terrible job.  I don't supposed it paid well, but at least this place is giving 16 local people (Kevin is white South African) a job.  The Namibian owners had apparently done all the training; the Zambian people I was told are not well educated, but they are willing to learn, trustworthy and kind. I forgave the management for the slightly misleading website that did not allude to the lack of anything at all going on in the local vicinity, not even a small supermarket for basic supplies to use in the well equipped kitchen in my tented lodge.

A day to the Victoria Falls from the Zambian side was a must .... and if I had to compare the two viewpoints I would say that the Zambian one had the best experience, the Zimbabwean one the best view.  If I said I got wet on my first visit, I got doubly wet on my second.  At least I was forewarned and had a change of clothing as well as flip flops.  On the Zambian side you can walk over to Livingstone island, although on the day I was there it was more like a swim .... I had to walk down steps with 2" of water flowing over them to get to the bridge.  You can also walk down to the bottom of the falls to "the boiling pot" on the Zambian side; I was lucky enough to spend 30 minutes on my own down there before other tourists arrived.  After negotiating the falls, the water swirls around in a kind of alcove and gives the appearance of boiling water.  I too this photo of the bridge between Zambia and Zimbabwe on the way down ... I hope you can see the two rainbows.

My Zambian sojourn ended with a meal at The Royal Livingstone Hotel with the mother and daughter.  I had promised a friend I would just go and have a look, but the "look" turned into gins and tonics and steak and salad .... am I getting predictable?  The service was nothing like that at The Victoria Falls, but the setting was tremendous.  

(sunset from verandah at Royal Livingstone Hotel, mist on LHS from VF)

And so my travels ended.  Uganda tomorrow.  And I think I have at last learned how to take a good selfie!!

Victoria Falls and pestering local Zimbabwian men

 Magnificent.  Thunderous.  Wet.

(my first view)

Not the highest, nor the widest, nor the bearer of the largest volume of water, but considered by most to be the biggest – Victoria Falls.  We arrived at the beginning of the wet season but there was already lots of water and lots of mist.  I was soaked from top to toe by the end of my visit.

(soaked from top to toe)

It doesn't take long to walk along the mile or so of the park, but the closer you get to the horseshoe falls, the wetter you get. 

VF is a scruffy tourist town with a few isolated bits of luxury – nothing much going on and, as in Swapkomund, the locals mostly disappear early evening.  Tonight I spoilt myself and went along to the Victoria Falls Hotel, a traditional colonial luxury hotel at the other end of town from my utilitarian “Rest Lodge and Camping Park”.  I hadn’t planned to go there and so was not really in the most appropriate gear, but I didn’t feel out of place as I wondered about the gardens, took photos and ordered a cold glass of wine and salmon, “as long as it is fresh” with a tomato and onion salad.  I have really missed fresh fish. 

(view from Victoria Falls Hotel showing bridge over to Zambia and the mist from the falls)

The service was impeccable – my waiter must have been there for 30 years or more, and he did look after me.  For instance, when I pulled out a book, he brought over a copy of the local “Sunday Daily Mail” and asked if I would like to read it.  Most of the guests had long chats with their waiters and there were many mentions of “please” and “thank you”.  It was all wonderfully quiet.  The wealthy of this world certainly know how to be polite.  I had a long chat with my waiter too, much of which I did not really understand but I kept on smiling, nodding my head and tried to say the right thing.  The final price was $40 dollars and I left a $10 tip.  Clearly I had enjoyed my evening.  I don’t actually think the salmon was fresh, but it was beautifully prepared and tasted delicious.

VF is full of malingering young men trying to sell wooden carvings  or stone sculptures – they pester you wherever they go.  Mostly I have managed to deal with them politely, but I was worried about the 800m walk home after my meal from the hotel.  I asked the security guard outside the VF hotel if it was safe and he said no, I would have to get a taxi.  The price would be $5.  He then said he would get one for me, turned his back on me, and, with his colleague tried to search for the number on his mobile phone!  I went into the hotel, checked with the receptionist about the need for a taxi, and was told it was perfectly safe.  And so I did walk home along the dimly lit road but I have to admit I was super cautious.  The young salesmen were still there but they were much more respectful once I explained my concerns about walking home in the dark.  It was not a walk for the feint hearted. Next time I may take a taxi.

I couldn’t help but reflect on the contrast as I walked from the lap of luxury to my lodge in a camping site.  The lodge had cost me $27 dollars a night.  It should have been $120 but that is another story – it is for 4 people and the campsite had overbooked the cheaper accommodation – I lucked out and got an en-suite for free.  It is very basic, but I have enjoyed staying here - I particularly appreciate the space to spread my stuff around after the best part of 3 weeks in a tent.  The Victoria Falls Hotel would have cost me $550 per night.

Once I was home safe and sound in my chalet I started to read the local newspaper I had been given.  My jaw dropped a number of times. Mugabe got many mentions.  And they were nearly all positive.  The one that shocked me the most, and got me thinking, was about the monopolisation of the diamond industry in a region known as Chiadzwa.  “The companies that have been mining up there have robbed us of our wealth” said Mugabe.  “The opacity of operations forced the government to order the private companies to cease production and allow the newly formed, state owned, Zimbabwe Consolidated Diamond Company (ZCDC) to move in”.  This is apparently going to save the country billions – only $2 billion has been received from diamonds over the last 10 years but this move, he said, would bring in $25-$30 in the next 10.  Isn’t Mugabe a great leader?

Population is 12.5 million.  Average life expectancy is 58.  I am glad I'm moving on to Zambia tomorrow!

Enough of African Wildlife

Our trip to the Okavango Delta was cancelled due to 2 tourists having recently been killed by hippopotamuses (or is it hippopotami?).  We were told this was because the water levels were low, but they did not seem very low to us; probably more about stearing well clear of any potential trouble for tourists.  I did however spend a memorable evening drinking gin and tonic and watching out for swimming hippopotamuses in the Okavango River at Bagani with fellow travellers.  Another special moment.

Our delta trip was replaced with another game drive, the highlight of which was definitely seeing a pack of 16 wild dogs, an endangered species.  The local paper reported on a "rare sighting" of 10 dogs together in the wild.  We saw 16.  Apparently they hunt together as a group killing largish mammals such as wildebeest and springbok. Over 80% of their attempted hunts end in success - for the lion this is only 10%.

There were lots of amazing birds too – I didn’t realise there were so many.  Our guide's book of African mammals included 800 species; the bird book was 4000. We all loved this one but I can't remember its name; it was very common.

In the evening we went on a boat trip.  We spent a long time watching a family of elephants come down to the river to drink.  The youngsters also decided to take a dip and refused to get out when their parents had finished which was somewhat amusing.   

The trip was interrupted by a particularly ferocious thunder storm.  The pre-storm oppressiveness provided an interesting photo opportunity.  Despite not seeing crocodiles and hippopotami close up, it was a fun 3 hour trip.  

The next day meant yet another game drive, this time in the infamous Chobe national park.  Felt a little sorry for our local guide as everytime he pointed out a elephant or a zebra or a kodu or a giraffe in the distance, we all said “drive on – seen it all before!”  Shows how spoilt we were!  There were baboons all over the place which was a little bit new but the only special moment was a scarily close encounter with a family of elephants as they crossed the road as they protected their youngster.  We also got pretty close to a  giraffe.  On the whole, Chobe in the wet season is not a good idea!

Seeing wild animals close up is always going to be amazing but I am not sure I will go on safari again.  Unless I can guarantee seeing a Leopard that is.  That it is the wet season does not help – the best viewing is when the animals are forced to come to the waterholes.  I enjoyed being there out of season though – we did feel on each game drive that for the most part we were the only ones in the park tracking down the wildlife – it felt like an adventure.

The Clicking San Bushmen

Whilst at Etosha we took a round trip to see a living museum of the Clicking San Bushmen at Grootfontein.  This followed on from a lesson we had had back in the Swakopmund township where the 4 main clicks were described to us.  Not having been much good at foreign languages I failed miserably but it is a strange sound – the click is made at the same time as a type of vowel sound – the click kind of replaces the consonants.  Hearing their language being used for communication was intriguing - if you can get this video to work of how to start a fire, you can listen for yourself. 

(video file too large ... ask me in UK if interested)

It was good to be able to “view” the way of going about life in the bush without feeling like a voyeur.  For this group of Namibians, it is 26 years since they authentically lived the San Bushman’s life.  Apparently there are a few hundred who still live the traditional way of life but I wonder how long it will last.

The man in the photo above is thought to be in his 50s although he looked a lot older (apart from his bum, more about which to follow) – all he knows is that he was born in the rainy season.  He really enjoyed explaining the many activities involved such as starting fires, making tools, finding medicinal herbs, and hunting animals – a real character!  Our guide for the day and the interpreter looked 16 but in fact was 25, but then I suppose he never really lived the bush life.

The women were a bit of a hoot – one of them had 13 children but said that had she been living the traditional way she would have had a lot more!!  They sang for us, and skipped for us, and happily sat there whilst we questioned and took photographs of them.  The visit rounded off with an interesting trance like dance designed to get rid of something – never was sure whether it was evil demons or just simply the arthritis of an old man.  A lot of shaking bums were involved.  Hope you can get this video to work.

(Download to follow)

The Matterhorn of Namibia and Etosha National Park

Only 10 days into our adventure we moved on from Swapkomund to the bush and Spitzkoppe, the Matterhorn of Namibia, height 1987 ms.  We visited a seal colony on the way up - the aroma was quite an experience but watching the seals playing around in the waves and the pups running together down the beach was probably worth visiting.  As a group though we were unimpressed on account of the smell.

Another bush camp that night and an even more amazing setting surrounded by huge granite blocks followed; the kitchen was set up in a cave and a camp fire was lit.  Africa at its best!  Spitzkoppe, the “Matterhorn of Namibia”, looked impressive in the distance but not the type of mountain I would want to climb.  I even failed to get up the granite blocks behind us a mere 50 ms or so – where have my mountain climbing skills gone?  A nutty 22 year old in our group managed to do it much to the chagrain of the rest of us!

We had an evening tour of the fauna and flora, brushing past a “lethally poisonous” grass before being shown what remains of some prehistoric paintings 2000-4000 years old.  There used to be a lot of them but unfortunately they have all been destroyed.  Another beautiful sunset and wonderful meal was followed by us all being given an African name.  Mine was Efuru, daughter of the heavens.  It was an early night.  We were all in our tents by 8.00pm.

(the lethally poisonous grass) 

(some of the paintings)

The next day we had another long drive to Etosha National Park, the first of three game parks visited on the trip.  On arrival in the evening we had our first game drive.  I was not expecting much regarding the wildlife but was pleasantly surprised.  We saw lots of animals but close encounters with cheetahs and lions were probably the most exciting.  I was also impressed by the stateliness of the Kodu, the national mammal of Namibia.  Quite pleased with my new camera.

The campsites in the park were good too but there was a bit of a scam going on with the wi-fi, and the “floodlit waterholes visited by many different species throughout the day and night” turned out to be a bit of a damp squib.  Animals do not need to visit waterholes built for tourists in the rainy season!  We all arose early the next morning in the hope of catching a leopard as we had seen almost everything else; the nutty member of our group also wanted to see wild dogs, but there was not much around.  Just elephants and zebra and impala and lots of birds and that sort of thing .... OK, perhaps we had been spoilt by the first drive.  After the activity of the night before it seemed strange that everything was so quiet but it was something to do with the rain overnight and the cloudy weather, or so we were told.  I didn't really come here for the animals but it would be good to see a leopard.

Swakopmund, 3 days rest from trucking and a wake up call.

The visit to the desert continued with a 3 day stopover in Swakopmund, the 4th largest town/city in Namibia on the coast.  It was originally built at the end of the 19th century as the main harbour for trade from Germany to Southern Africa but is now predominantly a tourist venue.  The main centre is full of colonial German architecture and seems a bit quirky here between the ocean and the Namibian desert.  The streets are wide, it is clean and it was a good place for us to have a few days of normality staying in basic chalet style accommodation rather than tents.  Our crew (Victor, Mike and Sam) also got a well deserved rest.  I have to admit I really enjoyed the chance to sit in a restaurant with a table, a cold glass of wine and a waiter served meal; whether the food was any better than Mike's which he produced off two rings is questionable!  The town however was pretty dead at night, the locals all returning to their homes on the outskirts once it began to get dark.  The meal times here are pretty early too - most restaurants are empty by 9.00pm.

There was once a train line running along the coast - the photo above shows the struts of a bridge.  Some would say I was foolish to go walking on my own and they would be right although I always felt safe.  However, I did have a wake up call.  At the end of a lovely day I was sitting on the beach close to the centre of town reading a book and watching the sun go down.  I hadn't realised that most of the other people around me had already gone when a young lad crept up behind me and tried to take my back pack.  He didn't get it as I had my arm firmly through one of its straps, but he did get my beloved iPad as the top was open.  It was a wake up call for me and a relatively harmless reminder that I must be more cautious in this land of inequality.  I am really missing my iPad though!

When I was in Cape Town I decided not to do a township tour - voyeurism being part of my reasoning - but I think it was a wrong decision for me - such visits make me think.  So the following day I went with some of the others from the group to where some of the locals live.  We started with a visit to a very small starter school - just 3 rooms, a headmistress and 3 teachers.  We enjoyed interacting with the children but it did not give a realistic view of education in Namibia as it was so tiny. 

The guide told us that good schooling is provided for children of all ages in the main town.  I wanted to see a more substantial school but my opportunity will come in Uganda.  I recalled visiting a secondary school in Kenya on my cycling tour 10 years ago when the 300 pupils sang for us African style - an unforgettable experience and a visit that I have often thought about as the teachers were really trying to do their best in an adequate brick building but without electricity, piped water or sufficient resources.  Would be interesting to see what type of education the guide considered to be good for Namibians.  Our visit did in fact end with a little performance from 3 local youngsters in a little hut.  They were good, but how good I won't really know until I get home and listen to the CD that I bought from them; it wasn't expensive, so nothing much lost.

Homes were provided for the locals in the 1960s when they were moved away from the coast to make way for the growing tourist centre.  Divide and rule was the order of the day, with each of the three main tribes being given a different standard of accommodation.  The lucky tribe that got the more substantial homes I think did pretty well, with quite sizeable homes divided into 3 rooms and  with inside toilets - not much worse than our chalet style accommodation in the town.  Not so lucky for the least favoured tribe; I gather the allocation was arbitrary! 

Nowadays the accommodation works much as in any town with the youngsters and older inhabitants choosing the smaller homes; above is actually now inhabited by those who do not want to pay any rent.  We were told that everyone gets a home.  Our guide had spent a year living in the main colonial town centre, but had made the decision to move back into one of the homes in the township as he missed living there.  Most people seemed to be enjoying their surroundings despite the high level of unemployment - there were many bars - and I was particularly pleased to see women sitting there chatting and having a beer as well as the men.  Below is one of our group dancing with our driver.

But I did wonder whether we were getting the full picture.  In a period of about 10 minutes I saw 3 people come up and get water from this water point using some kind of token.  Doesn't really look like a life style of choice to me.

The hedonistic highlight of my holiday so far was a 3 hour quad bike ride in the dunes, right next to Swapkomund.  I've never been on a quad bike before and I really enjoyed it!!  The views were amazing too.

Bush Camping and the Dunes

Next port of call was the Sesriem Dunes - a 600km drive!  But the reward was an amazing setting for the first of our real bush camps; no-one else in sight except Bertha, the 14 of us and our 3 crew members.  Did I say "this is what coming to Africa is all about!" in a previous post?  If I did, I was wrong.  It has to be about bush camping in the Namibian desert.  I loved the feeling of remoteness. 

A 4.30 wake-up call the next morning was followed by a tricky climb along the ridge of a sand dune to sit and wait for the sun to rise; the sand was deep and soft.  The pictures tell the story.  This is the only dune in the area tourists are allowed to climb.

(going up - no-one I know but does illustrate the going)

(forwards)

(backwards)

(downwards)

(sort of upwards!)

The next question was whether to descend the steep way or the sensible way - I chose the sensible way as I had nowhere to keep my camera safe but did wish I had gone the steep way! 

Once you have slipped back down the dune, the scenery is still amazing. 

(the bottom)

(going back to Bertha for breakfast)

Later on that day we went to Deadvlei, a kind of petrified forest in the middle of the desert - it was both eerie and beautiful.

Altogether quite an emotional day.  The Dunes are certainly worth visiting.